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Selection Criteria for Sport Climbing Licenses for the 2024 Olympics

A total of 68 representatives of sport climbing will be able to take part in the Olympics, ie 34 men and 34 women, which is 28 more than in Tokyo. He will compete for 2 sets of medals - separately in speed and separately in combination of difficulty + bouldering.

The qualification system is changing in speed during the Olympic Games, which will be a new two-round one. 14 men and 14 women will take part in the speed competition. From the first round of qualification, which will take place in the current system of ranking according to the best achieved time, they will advance straight to the finals of the first 6 best. The remaining 8 competitors who did not advance from the qualification directly will compete for the remaining 2 places in the final eight. The qualification will be followed by the finals in the format of the classic elimination eight with doubles competitions, as we have been used to so far. The competition in speed will be extended a bit with the extension of the qualification, it will be more exciting and the non-advancing competitors will get a second chance to make it to the finals. The adjustment of the qualification was proposed by the IOC to make the whole speed competition more attractive.

20 men and 20 women will compete for the second set of Olympic medals in a combination of two disciplines: bouldering and difficulty. The principle of advancing to the finals of both disciplines will remain the same as at the Tokyo Olympics. Both disciplines will have the same weight at the Paris Olympics and this time the order will be determined by a simple sum of points - see. further.

A relatively fundamental change awaits the boulder. It touches on both the results evaluation system and the road construction style. For laymen, the illegible evaluation of results in the style of "3T3Z 10 7" will be canceled and replaced by the conversion to points. Newly, 2 evaluated zones will be introduced: lower and higher, which should help to make the competition more equitable and to make the competition more attractive to spectators. Upon reaching the lower zone, the competitor will receive 3 points, the higher zone will lead to a total of 6 points and when reaching the top (including both zones) there will be a score of 25. 4 final boulders will remain at the Olympics. for gaining 4 higher zones (without tops) he has a total of 24 points - less than he would gain for one top. The number of attempts will be recorded as an auxiliary criterion for the so-called tie-break in case of equality of points.

In difficulty, points will also be calculated, with 3 point values ​​of individual catches being introduced. The first approx. 5 holds will be for one point, the next approx. 10 holds will be two points and the remaining holds (approx. 15 holds) up to the top will have a value of 5. will be set to 100.

The points for the bouldering finals and difficulty will be added up and the order of the competitors and the medal gain will determine the total number of points obtained in both disciplines.

The process of qualifying for the Olympics will also be different - the above procedure applies to difficulty and bouldering:


The first 3 competitors from the World Championships in September 2023 will advance directly to the Olympics

The other 5 competitors will advance from the first place in the continental competitions (Asia, Africa, Europe, Oceania, PanAm), which will take place in September to December 2023

Another 10 advancers will emerge from the final ranking of a series of 3 separate qualifying competitions in the new Olympic format, which will take place from March to June 2024.

One place at the Olympics can be taken by the host country if its competitors do not succeed in previous competitions (if this place is not used, the number of advancers in the series of 3 qualifying competitions will increase by it)

One place is for the evaluation of the so-called "Universality", which can be decided by the IFSC management if it concludes that one of the competitors with high potential has not passed the adverse coincidence of qualifying circumstances.

The national law remains in force

Original ČESKÝ HOROLEZECKÝ SVAZ


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